Horse Barn Drain Install – Econodrain #4

Phase 1 – Initial Site Visit

The barn is situated slightly downhill from the rocky crest of a horse pen. When it rained, water naturally followed to the north door of the barn and continued downhill through the south door. In an attempt to stop the flow, the hired contractor installed a trench drain at the northern side and a catch basin in the center of the barn. A pipe was then connected to each and then to a lower drainage outlet. The floor was finished with asphalt which covered the gravel layer containing the plumbing.

Three key problems existed when we came onto the scene.

Drain Selection :

• • The original contractor decided to take the easy route; purchasing a small neutral plastic drainage system from a big box store. Unfortunately, this type trench drain is meant for pool and sidewalk applications, not farm and barn. Drain selection is incredibly important when it comes to keeping livestock safe. At 3-4″ wide this drain can only effectively handle a low gallon per minute(GPM). The barn was seeing a higher flow rate due to the amount of run-off water coming down the hill. In addition, the water was heavy with sediment and the openings on the grates were becoming clogged, making drainage almost nonexistent. 

Drainage Pipe :

1. • A second problem was the drainage pipe used to take the water from the trench. A 4″ corrugated pipe was used instead of a 4″ sewer and drain pipe (S&D pipe). Unlike an accordion flex pipe, S&D pipe is smooth lined and more rigid. In the process of backfilling and compacting the gravel in the previous installation, we found that this outlet pipe was smashed, which constricted the flow, making water drainage difficult.

Drainage Outlet : 

• • Lastly, and even more ridiculous, was the drainage outlet to this system. In the process of digging the trench for the drainage pipe, the contractor found an old French drain and decided that was a suitable place to connect the outlet. In effect, the drainage water was put into a small perforated pipe that had no outlet.  

So, in summary, a system that was designed to handle 10-20 gallons/minute was subjected to a flow of 60-70 gallons/minute. Even so, it couldn’t handle the limited flow due to the crushed pipe and having no actual outlet. No wonder the barn was flooding!!

Choosing a Contractor

Having an appropriate contractor for the right application is extremely important. For example, when you ask a paving contractor for details on a plumbing project or estimate drainage requirements for a landscape issue, you may be asking someone who isn’t knowledgeable about drainage. For these applications, you must speak to someone that knows about drainage and can help you design a water control system suitable for your situational needs.

Phase 2 – Installation

There are several steps to take when installing drainage. In this case we had to remove the old drain, cut the asphalt, excavate the soil, and remove the old ineffective pipe. Then the new drain and piping could be installed, backfilled with gravel, and a final topping of concrete poured. 

First, we laid parallel chalk lines 12-inches apart in the center of the barn and used a concrete saw to cut the asphalt at the designated markers. The asphalt was only 3 inches deep and easily cut and removed. Similarly, the gravel beneath was also removed and stored for later reuse.

A new catch basin was also installed in the square cut out. A best practice is to use 4-inches of concrete perimeter around any catch basin. For more information on catch basin installation, view one of the previous posts that have been written on this topic.

We got the job done using good old fashioned elbow grease and standard concrete tools for the installation.